PROGRAM
This 4-day programme is designed to explore the marvellous landscape of the Monte Rosa massif by climbing some of its more spectacular 4,000+ peaks. You will also have the opportunity of learning basic mountaineering techniques and “cramponnage” fundamentals, as well as covering the main self-rescue manoeuvres and rope climbing techniques on glacier.
GROUP DEPARTURES
Difference in altitude: 1,000 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-8 hours
Meeting point: meeting at 8:30 am by the lifts in Staffal (Gressoney) for equipment check and a short briefing.
We take the lifts to Punta Indren (3,270 m). From here, we cross the Bors Glacier in the direction of the obvious pass that leads to the Cresta del Soldato (Soldier’s Ridge). We climb up to a small buttress that requires a grade IV climb. An easy stretch on rocks leads up to the peak of the Punta Giordani (4,046 m). We go down via the normal route along the Indren Glacier, then e take the trail that leads to the Mantova Hut (3,498 m) or directly to the Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m). Dinner and overnight stay in the chosen mountain hut.
Difference in altitude: 1,000 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-8 hours
Meeting point: meeting at 8:30 am by the lifts in Staffal (Gressoney) for equipment check and a short briefing.
We take the lifts to Punta Indren (3,270 m). From here, we cross the Bors Glacier in the direction of the obvious pass that leads to the Cresta del Soldato (Soldier’s Ridge). We climb up to a small buttress that requires a grade IV climb. An easy stretch on rocks leads up to the peak of the Punta Giordani (4,046 m). We go down via the normal route along the Indren Glacier, then e take the trail that leads to the Mantova Hut (3,498 m) or directly to the Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m). Dinner and overnight stay in the chosen mountain hut.
Difference in altitude: 780 m
Ascent/descent time: 4-5 hours
We set out from the hut at 4:30 am, at first over easy but crevassed glacier terrain, until we reach the Naso del Lyskamm (4,272 m). A brief descent leads to the Colle della Fronte (4,239 m), where the Cresta Sella begins. Through mild difficulties (II-III), the rocky ridge takes us to the Eastern Lyskamm peak (4,527 m). Via the airy east ridge, we descend to the easy track that leads to the Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m). Dinner and overnight stay at the hut.
Difference in altitude: 780 m
Ascent/descent time: 4-5 hours
We set out from the hut at 4:30 am, at first over easy but crevassed glacier terrain, until we reach the Naso del Lyskamm (4,272 m). A brief descent leads to the Colle della Fronte (4,239 m), where the Cresta Sella begins. Through mild difficulties (II-III), the rocky ridge takes us to the Eastern Lyskamm peak (4,527 m). Via the airy east ridge, we descend to the easy track that leads to the Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m). Dinner and overnight stay at the hut.
Difference in altitude: 900 m
Ascent time: 4-5 hours
We set out from Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m) after breakfast and put crampons on to climb up the glacier until we get close to the Vincent Pyramid and the Balmenhorn, then, via the base of the Schwarzhorn, the Ludwigshöhe and the Parrotspitze, we reach the Lysjoch pass (4,250 m). A descending traverse under Parrotspitze takes us under the Signalkuppe; another traverse and a brief and steep final stretch leads us to the Margherita Hut, Europe’s highest building (4,554 m).
Difference in altitude: 900 m
Ascent time: 4-5 hours
We set out from Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m) after breakfast and put crampons on to climb up the glacier until we get close to the Vincent Pyramid and the Balmenhorn, then, via the base of the Schwarzhorn, the Ludwigshöhe and the Parrotspitze, we reach the Lysjoch pass (4,250 m). A descending traverse under Parrotspitze takes us under the Signalkuppe; another traverse and a brief and steep final stretch leads us to the Margherita Hut, Europe’s highest building (4,554 m).
Difference in altitude: 1,000 m
Ascent/descent time: 12-14 hours
We set out from the hut around 4 am. An easy glacier hike takes us to the Lysjoch pass (4,250 m). We descend the Grenzgletscher until we’re under the ridge (Rey ridge) that leads to the summit. We walk along the edge, initially on mixed terrain then entirely on rock, until we reach the summit (4,634 m). From the top we can enjoy a striking view of the whole Alpine region, including the four-thousanders of the Bernese Oberland.
The descent is via the jagged normal route, airy and spectacular, which gives us a bird’s-eye view of Monte Rosa’s impressive east face.
The final, tricky section has us climbing the Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m), where we find the comfortable track that heads to the Margherita Hut; then we descend towards the cable car station on Indren Glacier.
Difference in altitude: 1,000 m
Ascent/descent time: 12-14 hours
We set out from the hut around 4 am. An easy glacier hike takes us to the Lysjoch pass (4,250 m). We descend the Grenzgletscher until we’re under the ridge (Rey ridge) that leads to the summit. We walk along the edge, initially on mixed terrain then entirely on rock, until we reach the summit (4,634 m). From the top we can enjoy a striking view of the whole Alpine region, including the four-thousanders of the Bernese Oberland.
The descent is via the jagged normal route, airy and spectacular, which gives us a bird’s-eye view of Monte Rosa’s impressive east face.
The final, tricky section has us climbing the Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m), where we find the comfortable track that heads to the Margherita Hut; then we descend towards the cable car station on Indren Glacier.
DETAILS
RATES
- liability insurance
The rate does not include
- research and rescue insurance with UVGAM coverage (recommended): €5 per person for 3 days
- the Mountain Guide’s expenses (lifts, transfers, meals and accommodation) to be covered by participants
- transfers, meals and accommodation
- lifts: Stafal-Gabiet gondola lift + Gabiet-Passo dei Salati gondola lift + Passo dei Salati-Indren Funifor multi-day round-trip ticket €40 per person
- half-board in mountain huts: €65 per person at Mantova hut; €80 per person at Capanna Gnifetti; €100 per person at Regina Margherita hut. Rates do non include beverages
- anything that is not mentioned under "The rate includes"
